Yep, a brothel.
As mentioned recently, Mom's watched a lot more television than is usual for her, thanks to that June ankle break. And when she watched the movie Elizabethtown, which highlighted some places to see around the country, she wrote down the place that was highlighted for Memphis: Earnestine & Hazel's.
Earnestine & Hazel's began as a sundry store---back in the 30s and 40s (as the sign still states). In fact, it even still has the original wooden cubbies where they used to store things. And the long wooden bar is the same bar that sodas and milkshakes used to cross over. You can even still sit on those original stools.
After that time for the building, though, some time in the 50s, Earnestine and Hazel bought the store and turned it into, well, they called it a hotel. UmmHmmm.
I dropped by there with a local Memphian a couple of weeks ago on a Wednesday. Karen was behind the bar (she's worked there for years and years), and she was eager to show us around, tell us about the place, and grill us a fabulous Soul Burger. (when someone takes the slice of cheese they're about to place on your burger, but first dips it in the burger grease sitting on the grill---where the onions have just grilled---you know that's going to be quite a burger. No health food here.)
Karen showed us the two extra bars out back. If you've seen Black snake Moan, you might recognize this space at E&H---it's the location where they shot the bar scenes. Samuel L. Jackson learned to play the guitar for the role, and he played it on this stage. All that dancing took place in the large open area in front of the stage.
Finally, we wondered upstairs. Karen warned us that it was HOT---and indeed, it was. During the week, they just open the windows and turn off the upstairs AC. You could tell. It was hot. But still, wondering around upstairs must be done when you visit E&H.
Upstairs is where the, um, "guests" used to stay. They've kept the old bathrooms---tubs and all. The other rooms are now places small groups can gather to drink and chat; these are the rooms that once were the bedrooms---first for travelers (The word is that Elvis stayed there in the 50s; the place is across from the train station), and later for guests there for another sort of, um, "business." Some rooms have just six or seven chairs sitting in 'em. Others have a couch or something similar. Nothing is fancy. Everything is old. The walls are painted in vivid colors---electric blue, and in some places, deep red---and it's peeling in an eerie yet nostalgic and definitely bluesy way.
No one has made a point of refinishing the place; I guess that's the charm. Walking around upstairs, it feels old, and sure, you can even understand why some people say the place is haunted. You can just imagine Ray Charles doing those things he shouldn't have done up in those rooms. (Have you seen the movie about him? Ray? You should. It's a good one.) BB King also hung out there a lot, and people such as Ike and Tina Turner, Otis Redding, and Holwin' Wolk have all been there; it was quite the hangout for musicians in the 60s.
But it was also a house of ill repute. Yep. A brothel. I think it started as a true place for travelers, but at some point, another type of business emerged. The musicians who hung out there? Well, it's a great place downstairs, and that became a bar long ago. They hung out there. It was folks like Ray Charles who ventured upstairs---doing things behind closed doors that couldn't be done downstairs, and at E&H, he was able to have a little extra, um, "company."
Upstairs also has a small corner room with a piano, and looking out over the street is another small room with a bar. On Friday of that week, I returned with a couple of colleagues, and indeed, that upstairs bar was open. We met Nat, the old bartender who's been serving drinks on the weekends there for fourteen years. And he confirmed that he doesn't believe in ghosts. He said that when you believe in them, you can see them. And he didn't want to see them. (But he also said he knew lots of people there who had seen ghosts at E&H.)
Back downstairs, the jukebox plays on its own every once in a while. And the rumors are that it will often play a song by a musician who's being talked about by the customers. We asked Karen if she believed the place was haunted. She didn't answer completely one way or another, but as we were having the conversation, the juke box, all on its own, began playing. She raised her eyebrows to us and kinda shrugged her shoulders, walking off to check on our burger.
On that Wednesday, we'd been the only patrons there; we were there early for Earnestine and Hazel's standards. (the place usually doesn't start hopping until after midnight.) But before we left, about four different groups of people walked in. One seemed to be a young college couple. Another group looked like they might have just had a Blues gig down on Beale Street---and that they'd had that same gig for about thirty years. And still another group was obviously from out of town and around just because it was Elvis Week.
Sure, it once was a brothel. And no, Mom had no idea about that. ;-) But I'm glad I went. It is a place you just gotta see here. So I'll go back to Earnestine and Hazel's, and it'll be on my list of places to take out-of-towners---those who I know would appreciate such a place. For to me, it is indeed just a great little joint with a ton of history and stories.




